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  • WASTE NOT: DANDYISM

    “One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” ~ Oscar Wilde Dandyism is often mistaken for indulgence, yet its essence is discipline, curation, and timeless elegance. (Southerton, n.d.) Imagine a dandy in a perfectly cut jacket-not from a couture house, but a vintage tailor’s shop where every stitch has a story. In a world drowning in textile waste, this philosophy feels urgent. The fashion industry is the second largest polluter after oil, producing 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually. Fast fashion, emerging in the 1980s, accelerated production, encouraged overconsumption, and ignored reuse or recycling. Clothing became disposable, with novelty valued above all else, fueling a cycle of endless desire. (UN Environment Programme, 2025) Dandyism offers a counterpoint. Rooted in 19th-century figures like Beau Brummel and Oscar Wilde, it prizes quality, simplicity, and detail. Modern “neo-dandies” reinterpret this tradition, blending elegance with individuality and a critical stance toward mass fashion. Style becomes both art and resistance. (Maciejewski & Lesznik, 2020) A shift from fast fashion’s linear model to circular fashion is essential, extending garment lifecycles, reducing waste, and favoring timeless design. (Lannilli & Spagnoli, 2024) Here, vintage fashion plays a vital role, offering individuality, authenticity, and sustainability. Neo-dandies selectively embrace vintage, creating wardrobes that are curated, maintained, and deeply personal. This approach resists fast fashion’s standardization, allowing clothing to serve as an expression of taste and identity rather than mere trend compliance. In the “waste-age,” the modern dandy’s creed-dress exquisitely, but not wastefully, offers more than style. It is a philosophy that, if widely embraced, could inspire conscious consumption and help fashion step out of the waste stream and into a more sustainable future. While dandyism may carry the visual language of luxury—crisp tailoring, sumptuous textures, and an air of refinement—it no longer demands a lavish budget. Today’s sustainable options, from second-hand boutiques to clothing swaps and upcycled tailoring, make it possible to achieve the dandy’s signature polish without excess spending or environmental cost. The allure lies not in the price tag, but in the intentionality: garments chosen for their craftsmanship, history, and character. In this way, the modern dandy proves that elegance need not be extravagant, and that true style is measured not in currency, but in creativity and care for the world we inhabit. Neo-dandyism is not about what one spends—it is about what one saves, preserves, and wears with purpose. Sources: 1. Southerton, D. (n.d.) Dandyism in the Encyclopedia of Consumer Culture. https://sk.sagepub.com/ency/edvol/consumerculture/chpt/dandyism# 2. UN Environment Programme (2025). Unsustainable fashion and textiles in focus for International Day of Zero Waste 2025. Press Release. https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/press-release/unsustainable-fashion-and-textiles- focus-intemational-day-zero 3. Maciejewski, G., Lesznik, D. (2020). Dandyism - A New Trend on The Fashion Market Or Just A Blast from The Past? https://www.researchgate.net/publication/342599653 Dandyism - A_New_Trend_on_The_Fashion_Market_Or_Just_A_Blast_from_The_Past 4. Lannilli, V. M., Spagnoli, A. (2024). Conscious Fashion Culture: Rethinking consumption in contemporary fashion https://www.researchgate.net/publication/ 382413083 Conscious_Fashion_Culture_Rethinking_consumption_in_contemporary_fashion All Images are generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

  • THE DANDY WEARS A HIJAB: MUSLIM WOMEN, TAILORED MODESTY, AND THE NEW GRAMMAR OF ELEGANCE

    From Ottoman dandizettes to today’s modest-fashion entrepreneurs, Muslim women are retooling dandy cool with sharp silhouettes, revered elegance, and radical self-presentation. From Dandizette to Dandy Hijabi The dandizette first appeared in 19th-century Europe, a woman claiming the pleasures of sartorial mastery once reserved for men. Today, that same impulse surfaces when a Muslim woman dons a structured abaya, a longline blazer, or a waistcoat layered over a hijab. It’s not imitation—it’s translation. Faith Meets Fashion: Tailored Piety Scholars like Reina Lewis (Muslim Fashion), Elizabeth Bucar (Pious Fashion), and Emma Tarlo (Visibly Muslim) have shown that Muslim women treat clothing not as a compromise but as aesthetic ethics. A cut, a hem, a scarf pin—each choice can be both stylish and spiritual, creating an intersection of faith, culture, and style that is both intriguing and fascinating. Where Dandy Meets Modesty. In this section, we’ll explore the intersection of dandyism and modesty in Muslim fashion, providing a comprehensive overview of this unique style movement. Androgynous Modest Tailoring Loose-cut suits and tuxedo-length blazers reinvent dandy grammar for pious wardrobes. Entrepreneurs & Innovators From London to Jakarta, women modest-fashion founders are re-stitching dandy values: craftsmanship, taste, and radical individuality—while centering sustainability. Everyday Elegance Jummah (Friday prayer) bests blur the line between devotion and dandy flourish: velvet jackets, silk-look scarves, perfectly tailored abayas. This concept, known as ‘Everyday Elegance’, is a key aspect of how Muslim women express their style and identity. Exhibitions as Evidence The landmark Contemporary Muslim Fashions exhibition (de Young / Cooper Hewitt) placed Muslim women front and center of global fashion, highlighting suiting and tailored silhouettes as much as gowns and streetwear. The curators made it plain: Muslim women are arbiters of taste, not outsiders, fostering a sense of global connection and appreciation for their influence. Why Call It Dandyism? Because the ethos aligns: ritualized dress, precision, individuality, and style as self-assertion. If Beau Brummell ironed his perfection into collars, Muslim dandizettes press theirs into hijabs and blazers. Different fabrics, same obsession with elegance, sparking intrigue and fascination in the audience. All Images are generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

  • OH! THAT'S JUST DANDY!

    We have added toxicity to masculinity, can’t shake weakness and vulnerability from femininity, and view the androgyne as dull, grey, and an unwanted bridge between the masculine and the feminine. We are suffering from gender norms, and when people are suffering, rebellious acts of protest follow. >> >> Originally, dandyism can be perceived as a reaction to changing times. The late 19th century was a time of the aristocracy’s decline, the upcoming middle class, and the rise of the individual. In particular, this was seen among artists and intellectuals as individualistic aestheticism, independent and non-conforming. It was all tied to an age of decadence, symbolism, and the urge to elevate life and the individual to beauty as an object d’art—simultaneously performance art and protest—by dressing fashionably elegant. This escapism in a period of transition wasn’t unlike our need to redefine our individual connection with humanity and the challenges that come with it in today’s world of growing global interconnection, cultural changes, the increasing influence of AI, and technological advancements. The Londoner George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (1778–1840), often considered the first dandy, wore his smart and sharp style as a character with an air of indifference, seemlingly fearless about breaking with the dress style of the powerful masculine energy of his time. Shaking off his background as a commoner, Brummell was a pioneer, breaking out of and redefining the confinements of conventional rules held up by the aristocracy. So, he masqueraded with conviction as a superior being who looked better than he actually was, and found that appearance alone sufficed. The origins of dandyism are rooted in the French courts of the 18th century. Toward the end of the 19th century, it was generally accepted that dandies in every city and time period looked different from each other. True dandyism had no real substance. It was a visual spectacle that was intended to fascinate. At that time, extravagant dress naturally had an androgynous style, since the idea of gender had not solidified into how we have come to know it today. Brummell uncovered that style and personality rather than birth and wealth could herald status and strength, but his understated, plain style of elegant simplicity was one of transgressive masculine renunciation. It subsequently led to fashion becoming associated with femininity. Extravagance and grooming were left to women, while men’s fashion became one inspired by social equality. Masculinity was meant to be neutrally uniform. Have we all fallen victim to the whims of the ‘first dandy’? Dandizettes wearing well cut suits and pants is widely accepted today, even regarded as a statement of feminine empowerment and emancipation. But men wearing something delicate, even close to resembling feminine, is emasculating, and therefore condemned, mocked, or cause for violence. Voices of protest rebelling against this, unsurprisingly, are considered offensive by some. If we are to change the world from one suffering at the hands of gender norms into one of compassion, won’t we have to be making it truly visible to the disinformed? This world of love going viral on the world stage of the social media landscape, which has taken the place of news sources these days, would be a good start. Our views on gender and the sexes are aspects of our broader daily existence. Shouldn’t this be reflected in the performance art of the modern dandy? Isn’t the dandy a reflection of a zeitgeist, challenging norms with eloquence and flamboyance? For decades fashion has challenged rigid and controlled gender roles, yet in daily life we usually dress according to which sex we belong. In a still dominantly masculine world, we still want women to dress subjectively “sexy,” and men to be muscular and strong. The men’s suit and tie is still the symbol of strength and authority, less colourful and decorative than what women wear, and certainly less “sexy” according to certain standards. We seem to find ourselves in an instant state of confusion, when this binary is twisted. Psychologically, we need these ideas and many other boundaries to understand the world we live in, but it begs the question whether it is desirable when our roles—specifically our sense of gender, its fluent dynamics, and its non-conforming curious nature—are challenged by what we now know is not set in stone. Artistic expression of nuanced and blurred roles of gender conformity as a form of sartorial protest for human rights and social advancement is peaceful and thought-provoking. Reviving the highly stylized and carefully constructed object d’art, it is also where the individual and the individual’s authenticity may seep into the dandy’s look. The dandy’s sense of masculine superiority slips into a sense of feminine belonging, no matter what class, sex, gender, group, or race we were born into. The androgyne dandy seeks to unite and integrate the feminine and the masculine, transcending identity. As our consciousness collectively meets with the individual’s persona in the physical world, there’s one message that can be conveyed: this is who we are, we are aware, and we want to be seen. All characteristics that we recognize within ourselves have a way of showing as we move individually through the world. The dandy, as ever, refuses to conform to this world’s conventional societal norms that are traditionally and conservatively pushed on our beings, and portrayed in our daily dress. More than ever, a dandy’s garments may go much deeper and hold more substance than solely appearance and a need for expression. So, whatever we choose to wear, we make an effort to put in a lot of attention and a love for wearing what we wear, with pride. It is deliberate. The dandy is no longer just a character that we play, but all that we are, merged into who we choose to show outwardly. In wonderment, seeing how every human being is an extension of the self as it appears, unapologetically finding beauty in the style of dress, and being able to say: “Oh! That’s just dandy!” All Images are generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

  • ALL-DENIM NEO DANDYISM: DENIM'S UTOPIAN FUTURE

    By Hetheru Raatmut, August 20th 9th. 2025 We asked NU World Kulture Digital Designs’ fashion designer HetHeru Raatmut to create a concept-driven editorial exploring All-Denim Neodandyism. The brief is as radical as it is poetic: imagine a futuristic, post-binary evolution of dandy style — one that draws on denim’s working-class past yet reimagines it for a utopian tomorrow. The result is less about clothing as a commodity and more about clothing as a manifesto. These digital fashion portraits take denim out of the realm of the casual and into a space where it becomes sculptural, sensual, and unapologetically experimental. Commentary and Style Analysis by HetHeru Raatmut @nuworldkulture9 1.Urban Vanguard: All-Denim Neodandyism I was drawn to the concept of All-Denim Neodandyism due to its feminine-centric exploration and focus on the cultural expression in fashion of the working-class ethos and style. As a Womanist, Human Rights activist, and Digital Fashion Designer, I  wanted to explore the idea of denim as a radical gesture, accessible, genderless, and full of unique and limitless possibilities. My vision was to create looks that were both futuristic and nostalgic, reimagining them for a utopian tomorrow. The outfits are manifestations of this vision, blending traditional denim with radical styling and a post-binary aesthetic. The use of denim as a primary material is a nod to the working-class ethos. My use of digital design tools allowed for the creation of highly detailed and realistic images, showcasing the outfits in a way that is both visually striking and thought-provoking. The images invite the viewer to consider the possibilities of fashion as a means of self-expression and cultural commentary, and how such denim designs can be used to push the boundaries of traditional fashion design. hrowing it into the ocean—technically possible, but highly unlikely to bring results. 2. Denim Ascendant: Post-Binary EleganceRebellion STYLE ANALYSIS  The women in the images embody the essence of All-Denim Neodandyism, a style that reimagines denim in a futuristic, post-binary context. Their outfits are testaments to the radical reworking of traditional denim garments, blending softness with structure and embracing androgyny. In the first still, the woman wears a denim jacket with a patchwork design, featuring a mix of light and dark blue denim pieces. The jacket is oversized, with a relaxed fit and a zip-up front. The sleeves are long and billowy, adding a touch of drama to the overall look. Her denim skirt is also made from a patchwork of different denim pieces, some of which are lighter or darker than others. The skirt is knee-length, with a flowy design that adds a touch of femininity to the overall look. The skirt is also adorned with a belt made from denim, which adds a touch of practicality to the outfit. In the second still, the woman wears a denim jacket with a corset-like design, featuring a structured silhouette that cinches at the waist. The jacket is made from a patchwork of different denim pieces, some     of which are distressed or frayed, adding a touch of ruggedness to the overall look. The sleeves are long and billowy, with a slight bell shape at the cuff. Her denim shorts are wide-legged and flowy, with an asymmetrical hem that adds a touch of drama to the outfit. The shorts are also made from a patchwork of different denim pieces, some of which are lighter or darker than others, creating a visually interesting contrast. The women’s boots are a striking feature of the outfit, made from a combination of denim and metallic materials. They have a chunky sole and a lace-up design, adding an edgy touch to the overall look. The boots are also adorned with metallic accents, which catch the light and add a touch of glamour to the outfits. 3. Patchwork Power: The Neo-Dandy Rebellion The women’s hairstyles and makeup are also noteworthy. The woman in the first image has a short, pixie-like cut with platinum blonde hair, while the woman in the second image has a short, spiky cut with platinum blonde hair. Both women have bold and dramatic makeup, with a focus on dark eyes and bold lips. The third image, The Neo-Dandy Rebellion, is a sharp, subversive take on neo-dandyism. This look turns denim into armor for the modern iconoclast. The ensemble is built from a meticulously constructed patchwork of light, mid, and deep indigo panels, each piece of denim sliced, angled, and rejoined into a geometric mosaic. The short-sleeved jacket, with its popped collar and precision tailoring, carries a sense of rebellious refinement — equal parts streetwear and avant-garde tailoring. The trousers mirror the top’s patchwork complexity, their relaxed silhouette offset by the exacting geometry of the seams. Layered silver chain necklaces drape across the chest, adding an industrial, almost punk-like edge, while reflective blue-tinted sunglasses lock the gaze in futuristic cool.

  • From Dapper to Disruptive: The Neo-Dandy Refuses the Frame — A Visit to The Met’s Superfine Exhibition

    HEY, HAVE YOU NOTICED THE EXCITING GAP IN THE FASHION SCENE? IMAGINE NONBINARY TAILORS REIMAGINING SHAPES, FEMME-PRESENTING STYLISTS GIVING DENIM A FRESH TWIST, AND DIGITAL AVATARS ROCKING GLITCH LACE AND ALGAE SILK! WE REALLY NEED THESE VIBRANT VOICES TO BRING THE MOVEMENT TO LIFE IN ALL ITS COLORFUL DIMENSIONS! The MET's portrayal of dandyism is visually rich and historically anchored, but it risks feeling like a curated relic. The exhibition *Superfine: Tailoring Black Style* nods to figures like Beau Brummell and Oscar Wilde while incorporating the vital work of Shantrelle P. Lewis and her Dandy Lion project. However, even as it gestures toward Black dandyism, it often feels like an afterthought rather than a re-centering. Black, queer, and femme dandies don't just add to the tradition; they explode it. They transform dandyism from a decorative pastime into a sharp act of rebellion. Yet the exhibit hesitates to tell that story. Dandyism isn't only about the past; it lives and resists in the present. Still, the MET's approach feels more like a portrait gallery than a living, evolving scene. It frames dandyism as an artifact rather than as an energetic movement. Even last May's MET Gala, which hinted at dandyism, missed the mark. The looks were more department-store dapper than decadent subversion. The attendees resembled dandies but forgot that being a dandy isn't a costume; it's a worldview. I visited *Superfine* with a group of neo-dandies, each of us embodying a modern interpretation, gender-fluid tailoring, maximalist detail, and theatrical confidence. We twirled when others turned and lounged while others posed. Museum-goers assumed we were part of the exhibit. Cameras flashed, and compliments flew. For a moment, we were what the show tried to contain "behind glass." But while the public embraced us, the staff seemed suspicious, viewing our gathering not as a celebration but as a disruption. It became clear that the exhibit had a blind spot: dandyism is not merely a display; it is a transformative way of life that must be felt and embraced. To further explore the vibrant world of dandyism and its dynamic evolution, check out the insightful piece "Dandy Royale" by Cyrene Renée. In this article, she delves deeper into the essence of this cultural phenomenon. René reflects on the powerful gathering of the "Dandy Royale" at the MET, capturing not only the fashion and artistry of the day but also the palpable energy and joy that defined the experience. She weaves personal anecdotes with cultural commentary, illuminating Black dandyism as a rich tapestry of identity and resilience. This article promises to offer a multifaceted perspective, featuring contributions from various writers, each bringing their unique lens to the celebration of dandyism as a contemporary movement that refuses to be contained.

  • Stop Paying Me in Hashtags: Why “Exposure” Isn’t Currency — And Never Will Be.

    By Gio graphy August 11th., 2025 NYC ExposureTrap Exposure doesn’t pay rent. Tags don’t buy groceries. Followers don’t keep the lights on — unless you’re heating your apartment with likes. I ’ve been offered “exposure” more times than I can count. “I can’t pay you, but I’ll tag you in all the photos.” It’s pitched like a VIP pass to success. Spoiler: it’s a one-way ticket to Disappointmentville — population: every creative person who's ever agreed to it. Exposure ≠ Payment Visibility is nice. Rent money is better. HubSpot’s State of Marketing 2024 confirms what I’ve learned the hard way: only 26% of marketers say social media directly drives sales. For photographers, that number is even lower. Unless the audience is already in your niche and actively booking, a tag in a caption is about as effective as putting your business card in a bottle and throwing it into the ocean—technically possible, but highly unlikely to bring results. A tag might be buried under a meme before lunch — or replaced by someone’s cat video by dinner.tossing it out to sea. I Give Work, They Give Vapor Photography isn’t “just clicking a button.” It’s scouting, shooting, editing, delivering — hours of labor. What I would get in return for “exposure” is often a tag that’s forgotten… or never shows up at all. According to Influencer Marketing Hub’s 2022 Fraud Report, 68% of photographers report missing or incorrect credit when working with influencers. Translation: your name disappears faster than free champagne at a gallery opening. The Wrong Crowd Work for free, and you’ll attract clients who expect free forever. Shopify’s 2023 Discounting Strategy Guide warns that this not only draws bargain hunters but also erodes your brand’s perceived value over time. Once you’re the “free photo person,” it’s harder to rebrand as “worth every penny.” Free work is a neon sign for cheap clients — and those people travel in packs. The Bottom Line I’m not here to be generous for someone else’s feed. I’m here to build a sustainable career. And that requires real payment — every. single. time. If you’re a photographer starting out, hear me: your work has value.*  Charge for it. Exposure fades. Fair pay lasts. And hashtags? They can’t pay the electric bill… no matter how many you stack in a caption. If you don't want to pay people for their work, you might not value their time and skills enough, which could lead to exploitation and hurt relationships. Studies indicate that unpaid or inadequately compensated labor leads to burnout and resentment, particularly within creative and freelance sectors (Friedman, 2014; Hesmondhalgh & Baker, 2011). This kind of behavior can hurt my reputation, lower the quality of work I get, and make things worse by creating an unsustainable dynamic based on inequality instead of mutual respect ( Vogue Business , 2021). In the NYC modeling and photography world, unpaid work is becoming more common because of too many people in the industry, incentives based on prestige, power imbalances, and a culture of gatekeeping. All of these things create a cycle where exposure is seen as payment, which is bad for creative professionals. *Do Note: Taking lots of pictures doesn’t mean you have a talent for photography. However, I recognize that you may define yourself as a photographer. The concept of a photographer is shifting. While some value professional standards and payment, others derive fulfillment and self-definition from the simple act of creating and loving photography.  Sources: HubSpot, State of Marketing 2024  —   https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/state-of-marketing Influencer Marketing Hub, Influencer Fraud Report 2022  —   https://influencermarketinghub.com/influencer-fraud-statistics Shopify, Discounting Strategy Guid 2023  —   https://www.shopify.com/enterprise/discounting-strategy Freelancers Union, Freelancing in America 2023  —   https://freelancersunion.org Friedman, S. (2014).   The Price of the Ticket: Rethinking the Experience of Social Mobility. Discusses the emotional and financial toll of unpaid labor, especially in cultural and media industries. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0038038513490355 Hesmondhalgh, D., & Baker, S. (2011).   Creative Labour: Media Work in Three Cultural Industries. Explores how unpaid and underpaid work contributes to exploitation and inequality. https://www.routledge.com/Creative-Labour-Media-Work-in-Three-Cultural-Industries/Hesmondhalgh-Baker/p/book/9780415677738?srsltid=AfmBOorRafk7VS7r6kYmGyDAkpROFbBavwGSHIq_UKBrB2KYrZuSCszF International Labour Organization (ILO) (2020).   Global Wage Report. Highlights how fair compensation is crucial for sustainable, dignified employment. https://www.ilo.org/sites/default/files/wcmsp5/groups/public/@dgreports/@dcomm/@publ/documents/publication/wcms_762534.pdf Webb, Bella. "Fashion’s Freelancer Problem Exposed." Vogue Business , 19 April 2021. The article highlights how freelancers in the fashion industry face persistent financial instability , inconsistent work , late payments , and poor mental health , exacerbated by the lack of clear contracts and support systems. https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/fashions-freelancer-problem-exposed-financial-instability-mental-health?utm_source=chatgpt.com

  • ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE CONTRADICTIONS: FILLING A VOID WITH EMPTINESS.

    By Sixten Rebel, May 30th, 2025 Hello, I’m a middle-aged guy who enjoys writing and freely expressing my thoughts, so I decided to start a (photo) blog to share my stories with others. The use of an AI writing tool would result in quicker results. Though I’m that old-fashioned guy who enjoys the creative writing process. Why, you might ask. Well, the imaginary brain, dreams, and thoughts exist. They are what separates the writing experience as unique and personal. The act of putting pen to paper or fingers to keyboard allows me to use my creativity and bring my ideas to life. So, why not take the time to enjoy writing and express your creativity? I know that kids are very interested in artificial intelligence (A.I.) for the purpose of creating bizarre songs, memes, and other amusing content to gain likes and laughs. Yet, there is something unique about the authenticity and depth of creativity achieved without the use of technology. Producers and musicians use it to create music and videos. Photographers use it to create quick high-definition images, and models may use it to make their content more appealing. But why? I see it’s simple to let a computer generator be creative; it takes less time and effort, and the results are much faster achieved. However, we all know that almost everything on the internet is fake news. In those photos, A.I. equals six fingers, world leaders dance while playing guitars and pianos, Elf on a Shelf transforms into Elf on an Erotic Shelf, creativity without being creative, and singing without actually singing one note. So you get my point: the online world isn’t real, but we put ourselves out there—our real stories, our real lives—for likes and hearts. We crave validation and attention in the digital age, even if it means sacrificing authenticity. Isn’t that the biggest contradiction you can find? Trying to connect with humans through AI-generated content. It’s like trying to fill a void with emptiness only to find that the void is growing deeper and deeper. Me,I enjoy going for walks in the woods, where raw nature calls and birds in the trees whisper your name. I enjoy taking raw, unprocessed photographs while walking through the woods or on the streets, as well as attending concerts where people play real instruments and write their own lyrics. The flaws of reality have a beauty that artificial intelligence cannot replicate. It’s not that I dislike Artificial Intelligence. I’m just that guy who encourages himself to stay true to himself and embrace life’s imperfections and rawness. @sixten_rebel_photos

  • From Chaos to Calm: Exploring the 1-in-400-Trillion Miracle Amidst Violence

    By Sixten Rebel, July 1st., 2025 A sleeping baby lies peacefully on moss, while soldiers cautiously advance in the background, highlighting a poignant contrast between innocence and the presence of conflict. A False Normal: Why the World Is Not What It Seems The reality that people currently perceive as normal and act on is, in my view, false. Respect and violence. Respect in general. War on a larger scale is spiralling in powerful nations led by dominant figures, and smaller scale violence lingers even in the Netherlands' narrow, quiet streets. It's a difficult relationship that alternates between hatred and greed. The world in 2025 — it’s intense, chaotic. There is a lot to comprehend and process. It's sometimes close to home, with your growing children drinking beer or smoking a joint at 14, or 13-year-olds getting pregnant or robbing a petrol station with a machete. The latest events make headlines in the local newspaper, right next to global news that’s constantly circulating on social media: a president referred to as "daddy" by another president, one dropping bombs and the other closing borders. I could go on and on about this misery, but will that help? No, but is it helpful in general? No, not really. Everyone is aware of it; everyone is in the same situation; everyone sees and hears the same thing. The various points of view alternate, and I am currently writing a blog about it, but I am not saying anything. At the very least, I am not saying anything new, right? A group of teenagers harassing a peer From Feuds to Wars: The Roots of Human Conflict War, quarrels, violent situations, and so on existed in the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, but today's social media truly involves everything. Yes, it is a lot now because we are constantly reading, seeing, and hearing about everything from Los Angeles to Moscow, and so on. But what motivates people to act, to use violence? Why do humans thrive on violence in all forms and sizes? Why have we been fighting against everyone and everything for over 3000 years? I honestly don't know... or do I? I believe that greed, jealousy, ego, and religion...are major causes of everything from minor disagreements among brothers and sisters to large wars between countries and their leaders. Industrial Oil refinery plant But Sixten, why are you bothered with this? Why are you writing about this? Simply put, people need to start looking at all of the incredible things we can do and show or let be heard. A Brief Reminder to Enjoy Existing Many people forget that the chance of being born is roughly 1 in 400 trillion. That’s an incredibly small probability, which only emphasizes how unique and extraordinary it is that you exist at all. And yet, despite how special that is, people go around fighting instead of—bluntly put—making love. (In times of war, birth rates typically decline during the conflict, but may experience a bounce back afterward.* Over thousands of years, we humans have evolved from animals to what we are now. Yes, wars and violence may seem inevitable, but so are love, joy, happiness, and the health we share with one another. Honestly, when you consider the past 3,000 years—and the one-in-400-trillion chance that you ended up here—isn’t that amazing? You were there, and that’s why you exist. Now, it’s your responsibility to create something meaningful for the next hundred years. Because in about a century, no one alive today will still be here. A new 8 billion people will walk this Earth, and they’ll need to make something beautiful of it too. The reason we’re here doesn’t really matter. What matters most is that we got to be here at all. So enjoy it—shouldn’t be too hard, right? Well, that’s that. I’m glad you’re here. *Source: Sobotka, T., Skirbekk, V., & Philipov, D. (2011). Economic Recession and Fertility in the Developed World: A Literature Review. Population and Development Review, 37(2), 267–306. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1728-4457.2011.00411.x

  • Designer Harley De Oliveira Debuts Fashion Show: "Power of the Future Fashion."

    Harley De Oliveira is a Brazilian independent fashion designer who lives in New York. His work is at the meeting point of art and sustainability. Harley makes clothes based on the desire to cut down on textile waste, using the phrase "passion + fashion = Harley." He fights textile waste with bold new ideas and upcycle couture. On February 15, 2025, at CPR NYC, we saw his first solo runway show, "Power of the Future Fashion." He showed off his vision with clothes that were bold, sculptural, and unapologetically experimental. Each uniquely handcrafted piece is a wearable argument for sustainability and innovation. He says he turns waste such as bottle caps, plastic table cloths, orange mesh plastic bags, recycled toys, and dead stock fabrics. and even LEGO bricks into high-fashion statements. He is using the different colors, shapes, patterns, and textures of nature as inspiration his designs. The shapes often have uneven pleats, corseted shapes, and layered deconstruction, which show off both technical skill and a sense of fun rebellion. Lego Dress worn with fearless energy by @itss_malaysia A Playful Collision of Fashion and Childhood: The LEGO Dress Redefining Avant-Garde Style The LEGO Dress is a wearable sculpture that merges art, play, and design. The dress is a riot of color and texture, made from hundreds of interlocking LEGO pieces. The material palette consists of standard a variety of shapes and pieces, and a LEGO figurine combined with plastic bottle caps. The dress features a structured A-line cut, a squared-off neckline, broad shoulders, and a doll-like effect. The skirt flares out slightly from the waist, creating a youthful sensibility. A pale pink fabric hem frames the bottom of the skirt, adding a touch of softness. It's a celebration of individuality, creativity, and the enduring appeal of play. Malaysia is delivering a fearless energy here—a mix of elegance and edge that says: “Yes, I’m wearing art. And I know it.” @m0rgancraft wears the look like a quiet revolution. The Thoughtful Rebellion The garment surprisingly blends rigidity with softness, clashing materials and shapes. The garment has a translucent white mesh foundation with asymmetric sections for movement and dimension. With a cropped vest in a bright navy-and-cream plaid, the outfit has a rustic, even academic feel. Puffed, sculptural sleeves in muted khaki add dimension and surrealism to the clean, contemporary lines. Ties and exposed seams suggest deconstruction and workmanship, as if the dress is becoming—half clothing, part concept. It seems like a garment that defies tradition with delicacy and deliberation, communicating innovation and restraint. Harley's work pushes the boundaries of traditional fashion by using unexpected materials, dramatic textures, and sharp tailoring. It also blurs the line between costume, sculpture, and ready-to-wear. Every piece has a story to tell, some of which are about defiance and some about reinvention. Bravo, well done and congratulations!

  • HIGH FASHION, HIGHER STYLING: Notes On A Stylist PhD, Rahel Tadesse

    Photographed by Trudy Giordano, October 2024 B ased in Brooklyn, NY, Rahel Tadesse has been a fashion stylist for over ten years. Style is more than just clothes; it’s a language, an attitude, and a trademark. Together with her sidekick, sister Genet Tadesse, they are well-known for their ability to translate clothing into a medium for self-expression. Genet works mostly behind the scenes in close collaboration and complements Rahel’s creative direction. Tadesse is dedicated to sustainable fashion and usually dresses in ethical companies. Demonstrating how closely elegance and sustainability can coexist. Central to her success is not only her creative vision but her strategic partnerships—most notably with two influential New York City showrooms: The Confessional Showroom and Doors NYC. These collaborations serve as the backbone of her editorial and runway work, providing access to some of the most cutting-edge emerging designers and global fashion talent. By focusing on magazine editorials, runway displays, and brand partnerships, Rahel has been helpful in fulfilling designers’ aspirations. Her work at Fashion Week Brooklyn is evidence of her mastery in assembling collections with an impact both on and off the runway. Apart from her fashion expertise, Rahel manages an online lifestyle company called STYLE BY RAHEL. It’s for people who constantly travel yet still want to look their best. Her attention to the fashion business is shown by the care with which she buys clothes for her customers, which not only reflects their uniqueness but also the newest trends. @stylebyrahel1 @ genet11 @fashionweekbrooklyn

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