“The Call of the Wild.” by Michael Sorkin (1987, March 1,Vogue. )

A Talk with Fashion Designer SUZA VOS We look into how digital fashion can change the way we wear clothes. Vos thinks that digital fashion can make people more creative and change the way we think about fashion for the better. Rendering (c): Designers Suza Vos and Harriet Blend. @suza_vos- @harriet.blend Can we overcome our human limitations and become more than we thought? With digital fashion, technology can improve our physical appearance and mental well-being. Technology and humanity create endless possibilities for creativity and self- discovery, challenging us to redefine what it means to be human. Suza comments “The line between human and machine is faint, leading us to constantly utilize technology to extend ourselves. How much can we add to ourselves before we cease to be human? This question, echoing through centuries of mythological tales, profoundly influences my work. Mythology serves as a lens to comprehend mortality and the primal aspects of human nature. But what if we are on the edge of embodying these mythologies quite literally?” Suza’s innovative designs push fashion’s limits and make us consider how technology affects us.As we explore uncharted territory, we must face what it means to transcend humanity and become something else. Will progress make us lose ourselves, or will we find a way to live that combines the best of both worlds? We’re still defining humanity, so time will tell. Suza continues “With my feminine view of the world, I aim to engage a broader audience within the technology sector, showcasing that beyond being merely technical, mundane, or even apocalyptic, technology can also embody expression and aesthetics.” She makes a place where new ideas and old traditions can live together peacefully, paving the way for a future that is more open and diverse. She challenges the idea that technology is only useful by showing through her imaginative designs that it can also be used for art. We can find a balance that lets us grow as people while still being human by loving both old and new in art and fashion. Her creations make us think about how we can be open to new ideas while still staying true to our roots. In her work, Suza invites us to consider the possibilities of a harmonious coexistence of tradition and progress in a rapidly changing world. Finally, her visionary designs serve as a reminder that our connection to the past can inform and enrich our journey toward a constantly changing future. Suza was creative lead assistant at The Fabricant. She has been a freelancer for 1.5 years, showcasing her designs at Amsterdam Fashion Week, NFT Paris, and Digital Fashion Week New York. She lectures on 3D fashion in addition to her art. @suza_vos , www.suzavos.com

We spoke with Jimmy Meagher, Government Affairs Policy Director at Safe Horizon, and Tesa Arozqueta, Acting Deputy Commissioner for Community Initiatives and External Affairs at the Mayor’s Office to End Domestic and Gender-Based Violence.

THE DANDY ACCORDING TO... A dandy—to me—is someone who dresses with rebellious elegance. They dress not just for the sake of fashion, but also to make a statement. A man or woman who goes against the grain—not loudly, but sharply and stylishly. They express their rebellion through refinement, showcasing their uniqueness akin to a well-fitted suit. Picture a mechanic, not in greasy overalls, but in a perfectly cut denim jumpsuit. Imagine a schoolteacher, dressed in a crisp three-piece suit, delivering lessons to a class of children. That’s dandyism—rebellion in silk gloves. Dandyism, as a philosophy, is about elevating the self—putting extreme care into one’s appearance, but not out of vanity. It’s an art form. A posture. A stance. This stance serves as a means of resisting conformity and asserting one’s individuality. Historical sources tell us that dandyism emerged as a form of resistance during the French Revolution around 1790. A true dandy doesn’t take himself too seriously—that’s what separates dandyism from snobbery. It’s always been a paradox: the dandy aims to please but often pleases by offending. The concept of elegance served as a provocation. This style exudes charm and defiance. From my perspective, she embodies rebellious chic. A rebel, yes—but one with polish and grace. Sharply dressed. Always deliberate. Think Peaky Blinders—power stitched into every seam. Pim Fortuyn, Roy Beusker, CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons A perfect example of a political dandy? Pim Fortuyn was a Dutch politician known for his flamboyant style and controversial statements. His bold fashion choices and unapologetic attitude challenged societal norms and expectations, making him a true embodiment of rebel chic. He was openly gay, distinctively dressed, and unwavering in his political vision. Now — Fortuyn may not be everyone’s cup of tea (he’s certainly not mine), but that’s beside the point. What matters here is how style, in his case, became a weapon, a brand, a disruption. Like it or not, he understood the power of tailoring identity — and that makes him a political dandy worth studying, if not celebrating. He named his home Palazzo di Pietro, carried himself like a Roman senator, and spoke like a man ahead of his time. Fortuyn, clad in a tailored suit, was a revolutionary. He was born in 1948 and tragically assassinated on May 6, 2002. Fortuyn’s death was, in part, because his dandy-like views clashed with the rigid expectations of political discourse. His bold ideas didn’t fit the mold—and that was precisely the point. A professor. A provocateur. He was a well-dressed outsider who firmly believed in the principles of freedom of thought and expression. That was precisely why he was assassinated. So yes—the dandy, as I see it, is the well-dressed rebel. Like the punk or the rock ‘n’ roller—both fight the system, but where one wears leather and studs, the other chooses silk and pocket squares. Both stand firmly against the standard—refusing to blend in, determined to express who they truly are. Images generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

From Ottoman dandizettes to today’s modest-fashion entrepreneurs, Muslim women are retooling dandy cool with sharp silhouettes, revered elegance, and radical self-presentation. From Dandizette to Dandy Hijabi The dandizette first appeared in 19th-century Europe, a woman claiming the pleasures of sartorial mastery once reserved for men. Today, that same impulse surfaces when a Muslim woman dons a structured abaya, a longline blazer, or a waistcoat layered over a hijab. It’s not imitation—it’s translation. Faith Meets Fashion: Tailored Piety Scholars like Reina Lewis (Muslim Fashion), Elizabeth Bucar (Pious Fashion), and Emma Tarlo (Visibly Muslim) have shown that Muslim women treat clothing not as a compromise but as aesthetic ethics. A cut, a hem, a scarf pin—each choice can be both stylish and spiritual, creating an intersection of faith, culture, and style that is both intriguing and fascinating. Where Dandy Meets Modesty. In this section, we’ll explore the intersection of dandyism and modesty in Muslim fashion, providing a comprehensive overview of this unique style movement. Androgynous Modest Tailoring Loose-cut suits and tuxedo-length blazers reinvent dandy grammar for pious wardrobes. Entrepreneurs & Innovators From London to Jakarta, women modest-fashion founders are re-stitching dandy values: craftsmanship, taste, and radical individuality—while centering sustainability. Everyday Elegance Jummah (Friday prayer) bests blur the line between devotion and dandy flourish: velvet jackets, silk-look scarves, perfectly tailored abayas. This concept, known as ‘Everyday Elegance’, is a key aspect of how Muslim women express their style and identity. Exhibitions as Evidence The landmark Contemporary Muslim Fashions exhibition (de Young / Cooper Hewitt) placed Muslim women front and center of global fashion, highlighting suiting and tailored silhouettes as much as gowns and streetwear. The curators made it plain: Muslim women are arbiters of taste, not outsiders, fostering a sense of global connection and appreciation for their influence. Why Call It Dandyism? Because the ethos aligns: ritualized dress, precision, individuality, and style as self-assertion. If Beau Brummell ironed his perfection into collars, Muslim dandizettes press theirs into hijabs and blazers. Different fabrics, same obsession with elegance, sparking intrigue and fascination in the audience. All Images are generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

We have added toxicity to masculinity, can’t shake weakness and vulnerability from femininity, and view the androgyne as dull, grey, and an unwanted bridge between the masculine and the feminine. We are suffering from gender norms, and when people are suffering, rebellious acts of protest follow. >> >> Originally, dandyism can be perceived as a reaction to changing times. The late 19th century was a time of the aristocracy’s decline, the upcoming middle class, and the rise of the individual. In particular, this was seen among artists and intellectuals as individualistic aestheticism, independent and non-conforming. It was all tied to an age of decadence, symbolism, and the urge to elevate life and the individual to beauty as an object d’art—simultaneously performance art and protest—by dressing fashionably elegant. This escapism in a period of transition wasn’t unlike our need to redefine our individual connection with humanity and the challenges that come with it in today’s world of growing global interconnection, cultural changes, the increasing influence of AI, and technological advancements. The Londoner George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (1778–1840), often considered the first dandy, wore his smart and sharp style as a character with an air of indifference, seemlingly fearless about breaking with the dress style of the powerful masculine energy of his time. Shaking off his background as a commoner, Brummell was a pioneer, breaking out of and redefining the confinements of conventional rules held up by the aristocracy. So, he masqueraded with conviction as a superior being who looked better than he actually was, and found that appearance alone sufficed. The origins of dandyism are rooted in the French courts of the 18th century. Toward the end of the 19th century, it was generally accepted that dandies in every city and time period looked different from each other. True dandyism had no real substance. It was a visual spectacle that was intended to fascinate. At that time, extravagant dress naturally had an androgynous style, since the idea of gender had not solidified into how we have come to know it today. Brummell uncovered that style and personality rather than birth and wealth could herald status and strength, but his understated, plain style of elegant simplicity was one of transgressive masculine renunciation. It subsequently led to fashion becoming associated with femininity. Extravagance and grooming were left to women, while men’s fashion became one inspired by social equality. Masculinity was meant to be neutrally uniform. Have we all fallen victim to the whims of the ‘first dandy’? Dandizettes wearing well cut suits and pants is widely accepted today, even regarded as a statement of feminine empowerment and emancipation. But men wearing something delicate, even close to resembling feminine, is emasculating, and therefore condemned, mocked, or cause for violence. Voices of protest rebelling against this, unsurprisingly, are considered offensive by some. If we are to change the world from one suffering at the hands of gender norms into one of compassion, won’t we have to be making it truly visible to the disinformed? This world of love going viral on the world stage of the social media landscape, which has taken the place of news sources these days, would be a good start. Our views on gender and the sexes are aspects of our broader daily existence. Shouldn’t this be reflected in the performance art of the modern dandy? Isn’t the dandy a reflection of a zeitgeist, challenging norms with eloquence and flamboyance? For decades fashion has challenged rigid and controlled gender roles, yet in daily life we usually dress according to which sex we belong. In a still dominantly masculine world, we still want women to dress subjectively “sexy,” and men to be muscular and strong. The men’s suit and tie is still the symbol of strength and authority, less colourful and decorative than what women wear, and certainly less “sexy” according to certain standards. We seem to find ourselves in an instant state of confusion, when this binary is twisted. Psychologically, we need these ideas and many other boundaries to understand the world we live in, but it begs the question whether it is desirable when our roles—specifically our sense of gender, its fluent dynamics, and its non-conforming curious nature—are challenged by what we now know is not set in stone. Artistic expression of nuanced and blurred roles of gender conformity as a form of sartorial protest for human rights and social advancement is peaceful and thought-provoking. Reviving the highly stylized and carefully constructed object d’art, it is also where the individual and the individual’s authenticity may seep into the dandy’s look. The dandy’s sense of masculine superiority slips into a sense of feminine belonging, no matter what class, sex, gender, group, or race we were born into. The androgyne dandy seeks to unite and integrate the feminine and the masculine, transcending identity. As our consciousness collectively meets with the individual’s persona in the physical world, there’s one message that can be conveyed: this is who we are, we are aware, and we want to be seen. All characteristics that we recognize within ourselves have a way of showing as we move individually through the world. The dandy, as ever, refuses to conform to this world’s conventional societal norms that are traditionally and conservatively pushed on our beings, and portrayed in our daily dress. More than ever, a dandy’s garments may go much deeper and hold more substance than solely appearance and a need for expression. So, whatever we choose to wear, we make an effort to put in a lot of attention and a love for wearing what we wear, with pride. It is deliberate. The dandy is no longer just a character that we play, but all that we are, merged into who we choose to show outwardly. In wonderment, seeing how every human being is an extension of the self as it appears, unapologetically finding beauty in the style of dress, and being able to say: “Oh! That’s just dandy!” All Images are generated with KLING AI 1.5 by Trudy Giordano

By Gio graphy August 11th., 2025 NYC ExposureTrap Exposure doesn’t pay rent. Tags don’t buy groceries. Followers don’t keep the lights on — unless you’re heating your apartment with likes. I ’ve been offered “exposure” more times than I can count. “I can’t pay you, but I’ll tag you in all the photos.” It’s pitched like a VIP pass to success. Spoiler: it’s a one-way ticket to Disappointmentville — population: every creative person who's ever agreed to it. Exposure ≠ Payment Visibility is nice. Rent money is better. HubSpot’s State of Marketing 2024 confirms what I’ve learned the hard way: only 26% of marketers say social media directly drives sales. For photographers, that number is even lower. Unless the audience is already in your niche and actively booking, a tag in a caption is about as effective as putting your business card in a bottle and throwing it into the ocean—technically possible, but highly unlikely to bring results. A tag might be buried under a meme before lunch — or replaced by someone’s cat video by dinner.tossing it out to sea. I Give Work, They Give Vapor Photography isn’t “just clicking a button.” It’s scouting, shooting, editing, delivering — hours of labor. What I would get in return for “exposure” is often a tag that’s forgotten… or never shows up at all. According to Influencer Marketing Hub’s 2022 Fraud Report, 68% of photographers report missing or incorrect credit when working with influencers. Translation: your name disappears faster than free champagne at a gallery opening. The Wrong Crowd Work for free, and you’ll attract clients who expect free forever. Shopify’s 2023 Discounting Strategy Guide warns that this not only draws bargain hunters but also erodes your brand’s perceived value over time. Once you’re the “free photo person,” it’s harder to rebrand as “worth every penny.” Free work is a neon sign for cheap clients — and those people travel in packs. The Bottom Line I’m not here to be generous for someone else’s feed. I’m here to build a sustainable career. And that requires real payment — every. single. time. If you’re a photographer starting out, hear me: your work has value.*  Charge for it. Exposure fades. Fair pay lasts. And hashtags? They can’t pay the electric bill… no matter how many you stack in a caption. If you don't want to pay people for their work, you might not value their time and skills enough, which could lead to exploitation and hurt relationships. Studies indicate that unpaid or inadequately compensated labor leads to burnout and resentment, particularly within creative and freelance sectors (Friedman, 2014; Hesmondhalgh & Baker, 2011). This kind of behavior can hurt my reputation, lower the quality of work I get, and make things worse by creating an unsustainable dynamic based on inequality instead of mutual respect ( Vogue Business , 2021). In the NYC modeling and photography world, unpaid work is becoming more common because of too many people in the industry, incentives based on prestige, power imbalances, and a culture of gatekeeping. All of these things create a cycle where exposure is seen as payment, which is bad for creative professionals. *Do Note: Taking lots of pictures doesn’t mean you have a talent for photography. However, I recognize that you may define yourself as a photographer. The concept of a photographer is shifting. While some value professional standards and payment, others derive fulfillment and self-definition from the simple act of creating and loving photography.  Sources: HubSpot, State of Marketing 2024  —   https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/state-of-marketing Influencer Marketing Hub, Influencer Fraud Report 2022  —   https://influencermarketinghub.com/influencer-fraud-statistics Shopify, Discounting Strategy Guid 2023  —   https://www.shopify.com/enterprise/discounting-strategy Freelancers Union, Freelancing in America 2023  —   https://freelancersunion.org Friedman, S. (2014).   The Price of the Ticket: Rethinking the Experience of Social Mobility. Discusses the emotional and financial toll of unpaid labor, especially in cultural and media industries. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0038038513490355 Hesmondhalgh, D., & Baker, S. (2011).   Creative Labour: Media Work in Three Cultural Industries. Explores how unpaid and underpaid work contributes to exploitation and inequality. https://www.routledge.com/Creative-Labour-Media-Work-in-Three-Cultural-Industries/Hesmondhalgh-Baker/p/book/9780415677738?srsltid=AfmBOorRafk7VS7r6kYmGyDAkpROFbBavwGSHIq_UKBrB2KYrZuSCszF International Labour Organization (ILO) (2020).   Global Wage Report. Highlights how fair compensation is crucial for sustainable, dignified employment. https://www.ilo.org/sites/default/files/wcmsp5/groups/public/@dgreports/@dcomm/@publ/documents/publication/wcms_762534.pdf Webb, Bella. "Fashion’s Freelancer Problem Exposed." Vogue Business , 19 April 2021. The article highlights how freelancers in the fashion industry face persistent financial instability , inconsistent work , late payments , and poor mental health , exacerbated by the lack of clear contracts and support systems. https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/fashions-freelancer-problem-exposed-financial-instability-mental-health?utm_source=chatgpt.com

By Sixten Rebel, May 30th, 2025 Hello, I’m a middle-aged guy who enjoys writing and freely expressing my thoughts, so I decided to start a (photo) blog to share my stories with others. The use of an AI writing tool would result in quicker results. Though I’m that old-fashioned guy who enjoys the creative writing process. Why, you might ask. Well, the imaginary brain, dreams, and thoughts exist. They are what separates the writing experience as unique and personal. The act of putting pen to paper or fingers to keyboard allows me to use my creativity and bring my ideas to life. So, why not take the time to enjoy writing and express your creativity? I know that kids are very interested in artificial intelligence (A.I.) for the purpose of creating bizarre songs, memes, and other amusing content to gain likes and laughs. Yet, there is something unique about the authenticity and depth of creativity achieved without the use of technology. Producers and musicians use it to create music and videos. Photographers use it to create quick high-definition images, and models may use it to make their content more appealing. But why? I see it’s simple to let a computer generator be creative; it takes less time and effort, and the results are much faster achieved. However, we all know that almost everything on the internet is fake news. In those photos, A.I. equals six fingers, world leaders dance while playing guitars and pianos, Elf on a Shelf transforms into Elf on an Erotic Shelf, creativity without being creative, and singing without actually singing one note. So you get my point: the online world isn’t real, but we put ourselves out there—our real stories, our real lives—for likes and hearts. We crave validation and attention in the digital age, even if it means sacrificing authenticity. Isn’t that the biggest contradiction you can find? Trying to connect with humans through AI-generated content. It’s like trying to fill a void with emptiness only to find that the void is growing deeper and deeper. Me,I enjoy going for walks in the woods, where raw nature calls and birds in the trees whisper your name. I enjoy taking raw, unprocessed photographs while walking through the woods or on the streets, as well as attending concerts where people play real instruments and write their own lyrics. The flaws of reality have a beauty that artificial intelligence cannot replicate. It’s not that I dislike Artificial Intelligence. I’m just that guy who encourages himself to stay true to himself and embrace life’s imperfections and rawness. @sixten_rebel_photos

By Sixten Rebel, July 1st., 2025 A sleeping baby lies peacefully on moss, while soldiers cautiously advance in the background, highlighting a poignant contrast between innocence and the presence of conflict. A False Normal: Why the World Is Not What It Seems The reality that people currently perceive as normal and act on is, in my view, false. Respect and violence. Respect in general. War on a larger scale is spiralling in powerful nations led by dominant figures, and smaller scale violence lingers even in the Netherlands' narrow, quiet streets. It's a difficult relationship that alternates between hatred and greed. The world in 2025 — it’s intense, chaotic. There is a lot to comprehend and process. It's sometimes close to home, with your growing children drinking beer or smoking a joint at 14, or 13-year-olds getting pregnant or robbing a petrol station with a machete. The latest events make headlines in the local newspaper, right next to global news that’s constantly circulating on social media: a president referred to as "daddy" by another president, one dropping bombs and the other closing borders. I could go on and on about this misery, but will that help? No, but is it helpful in general? No, not really. Everyone is aware of it; everyone is in the same situation; everyone sees and hears the same thing. The various points of view alternate, and I am currently writing a blog about it, but I am not saying anything. At the very least, I am not saying anything new, right? A group of teenagers harassing a peer From Feuds to Wars: The Roots of Human Conflict War, quarrels, violent situations, and so on existed in the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, but today's social media truly involves everything. Yes, it is a lot now because we are constantly reading, seeing, and hearing about everything from Los Angeles to Moscow, and so on. But what motivates people to act, to use violence? Why do humans thrive on violence in all forms and sizes? Why have we been fighting against everyone and everything for over 3000 years? I honestly don't know... or do I? I believe that greed, jealousy, ego, and religion...are major causes of everything from minor disagreements among brothers and sisters to large wars between countries and their leaders. Industrial Oil refinery plant But Sixten, why are you bothered with this? Why are you writing about this? Simply put, people need to start looking at all of the incredible things we can do and show or let be heard. A Brief Reminder to Enjoy Existing Many people forget that the chance of being born is roughly 1 in 400 trillion. That’s an incredibly small probability, which only emphasizes how unique and extraordinary it is that you exist at all. And yet, despite how special that is, people go around fighting instead of—bluntly put—making love. (In times of war, birth rates typically decline during the conflict, but may experience a bounce back afterward.* Over thousands of years, we humans have evolved from animals to what we are now. Yes, wars and violence may seem inevitable, but so are love, joy, happiness, and the health we share with one another. Honestly, when you consider the past 3,000 years—and the one-in-400-trillion chance that you ended up here—isn’t that amazing? You were there, and that’s why you exist. Now, it’s your responsibility to create something meaningful for the next hundred years. Because in about a century, no one alive today will still be here. A new 8 billion people will walk this Earth, and they’ll need to make something beautiful of it too. The reason we’re here doesn’t really matter. What matters most is that we got to be here at all. So enjoy it—shouldn’t be too hard, right? Well, that’s that. I’m glad you’re here. *Source: Sobotka, T., Skirbekk, V., & Philipov, D. (2011). Economic Recession and Fertility in the Developed World: A Literature Review. Population and Development Review, 37(2), 267–306. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1728-4457.2011.00411.x

Harley De Oliveira is a Brazilian independent fashion designer who lives in New York. His work is at the meeting point of art and sustainability. Harley makes clothes based on the desire to cut down on textile waste, using the phrase "passion + fashion = Harley." He fights textile waste with bold new ideas and upcycle couture. On February 15, 2025, at CPR NYC, we saw his first solo runway show, "Power of the Future Fashion." He showed off his vision with clothes that were bold, sculptural, and unapologetically experimental. Each uniquely handcrafted piece is a wearable argument for sustainability and innovation. He says he turns waste such as bottle caps, plastic table cloths, orange mesh plastic bags, recycled toys, and dead stock fabrics. and even LEGO bricks into high-fashion statements. He is using the different colors, shapes, patterns, and textures of nature as inspiration his designs. The shapes often have uneven pleats, corseted shapes, and layered deconstruction, which show off both technical skill and a sense of fun rebellion. Lego Dress worn with fearless energy by @itss_malaysia A Playful Collision of Fashion and Childhood: The LEGO Dress Redefining Avant-Garde Style The LEGO Dress is a wearable sculpture that merges art, play, and design. The dress is a riot of color and texture, made from hundreds of interlocking LEGO pieces. The material palette consists of standard a variety of shapes and pieces, and a LEGO figurine combined with plastic bottle caps. The dress features a structured A-line cut, a squared-off neckline, broad shoulders, and a doll-like effect. The skirt flares out slightly from the waist, creating a youthful sensibility. A pale pink fabric hem frames the bottom of the skirt, adding a touch of softness. It's a celebration of individuality, creativity, and the enduring appeal of play. Malaysia is delivering a fearless energy here—a mix of elegance and edge that says: “Yes, I’m wearing art. And I know it.” @m0rgancraft wears the look like a quiet revolution. The Thoughtful Rebellion The garment surprisingly blends rigidity with softness, clashing materials and shapes. The garment has a translucent white mesh foundation with asymmetric sections for movement and dimension. With a cropped vest in a bright navy-and-cream plaid, the outfit has a rustic, even academic feel. Puffed, sculptural sleeves in muted khaki add dimension and surrealism to the clean, contemporary lines. Ties and exposed seams suggest deconstruction and workmanship, as if the dress is becoming—half clothing, part concept. It seems like a garment that defies tradition with delicacy and deliberation, communicating innovation and restraint. Harley's work pushes the boundaries of traditional fashion by using unexpected materials, dramatic textures, and sharp tailoring. It also blurs the line between costume, sculpture, and ready-to-wear. Every piece has a story to tell, some of which are about defiance and some about reinvention. Bravo, well done and congratulations!